You can use these tongs to offer the mouse to your snake. It is important for you to purchase a set of feeding tongs like these. ![]() I don’t want to risk my snake getting injured, and therefore, I prefer to feed pre-killed (a.k.a frozen/thawed) mice. Because a live mouse will be fighting for its life, there is a chance that your corn snake could be injured by its teeth or claws. There is a continuous debate amongst snake owners about whether you should feed your snake live mice or pre-killed frozen mice. Remember, it is always better to feed one larger meal than several small ones. When in doubt of what size mouse is best for your corn snake, choose a mouse that is no larger than 1 ½ times the size of your snake’s body at its widest point. Mouse sizes range from pinkies, to fuzzies, to hoppers, then small mice, adult mice, and finally jumbo mice. Baby corn snakes should be fed every 5-7 days, and adult corn snakes should be fed every 10 days. Rats are known to be more nutritious than mice, and therefore should only be fed as an occasional treat, or your corn snake may become overweight. In captivity, their diet mainly consists of mice and the occasional rat. In the wild corn snakes will eat a variety of rodents, lizards, eggs, and birds. Predators tend to attack from above, so reaching for them at this angle could frighten them. Never reach above your corn snake to pick them up either, instead come from beside them. You should also always sanitize your hands after handling to prevent your corn snake from transferring any bacteria or diseases to you. Keeping a bottle of sanitizer beside their enclosure and sanitize your hands before handling will both help to prevent your corn snake from confusing your fingers with food, and the transfer of germs or bacteria to your corn snake. It is also a good idea to make sure your hands don't smell like food before attempting to handle your snake. You should always leave your corn snake alone at least forty eight hours after a meal because handling them too soon could cause them to regurgitate their meal, which can potentially be life threatening. Handle your corn snake once or twice weekly, but never more than once a day, because that can cause unnecessary stress.Īlthough corn snakes are known to be very docile, if you pick them up in a way that mimics offering food they may become confused and bite you. After the snake has had time to settle in, it is important to start handling them so that they can begin getting used to you. If you don’t own any other reptiles, there's no need to worry about quarantining them, however it is still a good idea to temporarily place them onto a paper towel substrate to monitor their droppings before transitioning them to a more natural looking substrate. To learn how to quarantine a new reptile, check out my article here. This is to prevent the spread of any sickness or mites that this new snake may have. How would you feel if you were yanked out of your home and dropped into an unfamiliar place? It is also important to note that during this time, they should be quarantined in a room far away from any other reptiles you may own while you monitor them. ![]() It can be very stressful for a snake to be taken from a familiar environment and thrown into a brand new one. When you first bring home your corn snake, it's best to put them into their enclosure and wait 3-5 days before handling them so that they can become adjusted to their new home. Corn snake morphs come in a wide variety of colors and patterns, such as the lavender corn snake, okeetee corn snake, and tessera corn snake. They are readily available at most pet stores as well as through online corn snake breeders. ![]() In the wild they normally live between 6-8 years, but in captivity these snakes can live to see their 20s. Part of their hardiness is due to the fact that they can be found all over the eastern United States in different temperatures and environments. They are outgoing snakes that rarely bite, and don't require too much attention.
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